South Cheshire Militaire Show Report - 26th Feb 2012 - Crewe

The South Cheshire Militaire Show held in Crewe, each last Sunday of Feb. Is usually the first "show" of the year for me. Though mainly a modelling show, it has aspects of wargaming, railway modelling and radio controlled elements. The show is held in Oakley Centre, opposite ASDA and has plenty of car parking nearby. Which thankfully is free on a Sunday.

I first went to the Militaire many moons ago. Sometime around the late 1990s, as I was studying for my degree nearby.

So, three of us, piled into Micks car early on a sunday morning and headed off. The trip there was very quiet.

The show was not as busy as last year in terms of visitors and traders and displays. This could have been down to the football matches etc on and also the economic climate.
Either way, it was still reasonably busy as I hope the photos will show.
I am not a modeller as such. But I do admire the skill and efforts of those who are. My neighbour is a modeller and was there with his local group, showing a selection of military vehicles.

So here are some photos, with notes where I can recall anything of particular note.

South Cheshire Model Club

The curtain, behind the stand, hides the model competition area, which was being judged when I was taking photos so, sorry no shots of the winners or entries in the various classes. But take my word for it. Some seriously nice models and painting standards on display. Not as many entries as last year sadly.

Part of the up stairs area, with RC bits at the far end. Bring and Buy was next to this, just out of shot.

 The show has two areas down stairs, The main hall, a side part of the hall, and the upstairs area where wargames games and RC and railroad bits and the competitions tend to be held.

This years only wargame I spotted. Last year there was much more.

 The wargames element was much larger last year with three or four traders and 3-4 demo games etc. This year I only spotted the one table and one trader who's primary stock was gaming related. He seemed to be doing a roaring trade, given his captive market. I grabbed a tin full of 40k bits and odds and ends for £15. Which had a few terminators in it, to finish me space hulk rpg/game (see other blog posts). Inc a couple of tech marines and some old OOP bits. So not too bad for the pennies.

Tiny scale model railways layout.

 When we first moved back to the UK, and I was about 7, I recall going to a model railways show in Brighton with my father. And I recall, wathcing a tiny layout, just like the one shown above. That Christmas my father bought me a hornby OO set. But I can still recall the fascination of the tiny layouts and the trains. This was a very neatly done layout.

RC Trucks and Trailers. Very impressive.

 Before I got into wargaming, I used to build and fly RC model aircraft. I build some pretty big ones in my time, including a 1/4 scale piper cub with working camera in its belly. I still have a love of all things Radio Controlled, be they trucks, cars or plans or helicopters. The trucks and plains are a regular part of the show and there were also simulators for people to have a try with.

A seriously impressive large scale RC aircraft. The work on the wings was lovely.

The netted area to the rear of the photos is the RC area where things were displayed in motion. In previous years RC helicopters and plains have been flown inside it. I didn't see any in flight this time. But it was popular with the youngsters.  

Little, medium and large.. The progress of electric model choppers is quite something.

 When I started RC flying, in the early 1990s, Electric planes and helicopters were in their infancy and very short duration. Motors were pricey and weak. Now days the technology has moved on considerably and is quite impressive.

Sorry about the lighting.

Very nice scene. Loves the texture and colours.

Scratch built bridging equipment. Very impressive.

1/35th scale models I think. Some seriously nice work.

Chester Model Club Stand. Up stairs.

This was on the South Cheshire Model Club. A Wasp attack chopper from GHOST in the Shell, with a Tatchkoma.

Tatchkoma omnipede tank from Ghost in the Shell, Animation Series.

 I think these ranked as my favourite models this year. I love the animated series, Ghost in the Shell and these models were very nicely done. Unfortunately was not able to find out if they were kits or scratch builds. I have seen a Tatchkoma tank, kit before. But not the Wasp attack chopper.

More ghost in the shell model shots.

View of the central area of the down stairs, from the up stairs landing. To the right behind the partition was another area.

The view down into the left side of the main hall.

I missed Vader! But R2-D2 was doing a great job of raising money for good causes. As he trundled forward and back.

 There were a few folks in various Star Wars Costumes. R2, was semi mobile, with an RC controller and lights and sound. Very nicely done. Did not see the darlek moving. But again was very nicely done. All I can say is people must have been garages to keep them in.

Captain Scarlet Models.

Space 1999 build in progress.

Hawk model, made with components from a myriad of AIRFIX kits.

Have seen a similar layout to this Y-wing. But still a lovely model.

Y-Wing prepping for flight.

Mechano - Big kids at play. Seriously nice working models.

My mechano never looked like this.

A very nice and neat display.

More models.

Vientam diorama. Very nicely done. Loved the mud effect.

The foreground seemed a bit sterile to me, but then its easy to moan, as I haven't spent the probably many many hours make ing it. But it was still lovely.

There were several traders selling a variet of model kits, or modelling related bits and pieces.

More models.. in the main hall.

This one reminded me of the display at Bovington Tank museum where the full size is on show.

My second favourite figure of the show.

The photo does not fully do these justice. The detailing was impressive.

More nice models on show down stairs.

I always am impressed by the large figure models and busts. There were some stunners, with brilliant paint work on.

Just one of the many stunning large figures.

Flat models. The scenese and painting on several of these were breathtaking. I just wish the camera could do a better job of showing the visual effect.

I dread to think fo the house in vested in these flat figure displays. The painting is something special.

Sci-fi models. Some nice bits.

I liked this array of four viper bays. Its the kind of model I would love to have made. Not too clean.

A motely crew of sci-fi classics.

An aerosan lurking on the top right, with a variety of other military vehicles.

I couldn't get to the bottom of this display. As the chaps were always busy when I tried to enquire. But it looked interesting.

Airfix Members Club stand.

All airfix kits.

A view back toward the cafe / food area.

Some more lovely aircraft.

Some moden era kits.

Sci-fi small scale pieces.

25lber and 3" mortor with bren, GPMG and bits. A nice display.

I would love to have a go at firing a 3".

The side area down stairs.

Some model trucks and 1950s displays.

The local RC Boat club always have a good display.

Yes, that is a working titanic and this one floats.

Some impressive models.

Liked this C130 Gunship.

Some of my neighbours and his club mates work.

I was trying to identify the tank, but my brain has failed me.

Mick, attempting to run away.

My purchases for the day were some more x-acto scalpel blades, a new small handle, some plastic weld glue and tin of GW 40K random bits and bobs. So not a fortune spent, but the blades were needed.

So not a bad day out. Was good to get out and see new things and pinch ideas and tips from various places and generally have a good wander.

So now it is a case of two more weeks and it is WMMS.. the next and first full Wargames Show of the year for me.

If you are not too far from Crewe, and have not been. Then why not pop along and see the Militaire next year.

Paint Stripping - Part 2

Well as a bit of follow on from my previous article about paint stripping and the agents in use by some of our gaming community and my preference for Dettol.

Today, I picked up a bottle of "Acetone Free" nail varnish/polish remover. I have been told by a fellow club mate, that it is the agent he uses.

Also, the enquiry was made, what about Coca Cola.. of either variety.. it certainly eats teeth, so will it eat paint.

So anyhow, some expericements shall be following in a day or two as I test out these agents and see if they can be added to the armoury of paint strippers.

So, watch this space.


(See Paint Stripping Part 3 for more info) 

Clutter - The gamers evil addiction..

So you are a wargamer, right.?

You have a dedicated painting table, correct.?

But somehow the world conspires to cover it in masses of ever growing clutter..

It is a conspiracy it tell you. Last year I had a pretty good clear out and managed to get the point where my painting chair was free to use and the painting table.
Now I can barely see either. Hmmm where did it all come from. And what is it?

The answer is, its stuff I hauled out to look at when I had a whim and interest in something and then somehow never got to put it away. Worse, the place that is came from has now been filled, with something else.

So, yes, its storage problems partly.. and just the fact that was gamers, I am not alone in buying new things here and there without really contemplating if I needed them. I just had grand ideas which have yet to be realised in the main.

So.. yes, it is time to be more strict and cut the clutter and buying. To paint what I have and to keep it organised and tidy.

Hmmm de-ja-vu is springing to mind.. was this not what I said last year..

So anyhow, it was and I am know it was. So operation table clear #2 is now about to commence. The aim to liberate my painting table.
However moving the clutter aside will not suffice this time. I need to sort some longer term storage of paints and tools etc to keep it the table tidy. Not only so I may paint, but also so I may be able to tackle some of those modelling jobs where cutting etc is required.

So, paint storage.. this will be one issue to investigate. Lots of commercial options out there, but most are pricey and most don't fit what I want. I need some sort of paint rack to take vallejo paint bottles and hold them horizontal, so i can mount the rack vertically against some shelves. I can see some engineering being needed.

Anyways, this is one project to get things started. The other is also a clear out of some non progressing projects and miniatures.

Will post some photos of how things progress in the coming weeks.

Stripping Paint - The wonders of nature..

Apologies for another gap in postings. I have been busy with other life issues. But managed a bit of work the last couple of days. Not painting as such, but preparing for painting. Had a few older minis, with dire paint jobs that needed stripping back to bare metal.

I have been using the same basic technique for a while. And I thought I would pop down some tips here.

Stripping Agents

Simple Green - Firstly if you search the Internet you will get lots of info about how our US cousins do it. Using "Simple Green", an environmentally friendly cleaner that is hard and pricey to get here in the UK.
Its a good agent, not nasty and works on both plastic, metal and resin and won't eat or soften green stuff.

Brake Fluid - (yukkk), some people swear by it. But frankly, it stinks, its nasty, you have to wear gloves with the stuff and you cannot under any circumstances pour it down the drain in the UK. The Environment Agency / or SEPA will jump down your neck as they regularly test for the stuff and it ain't worth the fine. You can of course, take it to your local council waste refuse collection point, who should have a safe disposal method. This works on metal, metal and metal.. put it on some resins it will cause reaction. And it will dissolve some plastics.
BUT if you metals were made with some stranger alloys, brake fluid can taint the metal. Just ask anyone who's had a car, vandalised with the stuff. It requires the surface rubbing back.
So frankly.. for the hassles, avoid like hell is my advice..

Fairy Power Spray - This is a UK brand domestic cleaner. Works on metals. Will weaken super glue and it reacts with green stuff. Works on some plastics. Best to test before hand.

Nitromors - Industial grade, paint remover.. nasty, horrid stuff with lots of fumes. But it will eat anything paint wise. Also will eat your plastics like no tomorrow into big sticky glupe that may catch fire! But on metals its fine. But the usual safety proviso, you cannot pore this down the drain either, its wickedly horrid to wild life etc.


Mr Muscles oven Cleaner - An oven cleaning foaming cleaner. Seen it used, but never tried it my self.

Dettol - The brown, smelly stuff, that turns white and cloudy in water. Yes, detol. It contains an natural agent called "pinesol". In fact this is the same active ingredient in simple green I believe. It does smell. But as long as you wear gloves, or your skin on your hands will go dry, and you have an open window nearby to mitigate the fumes its, perfectly safe. Its also not as nasty to be pored down the drain. This is my cleaner of choice for a couple of reasons.
It works on metals, plastics, it does weaken super glue, but it won't eat green stuff.

Water - Yes, good old H2O.. Simple and can be very effective. Pop the miniature into warm water and leave and leave.. if you are in no hurry, leave for weeks on end. Occasionally swishing the water round. Add a bit of salt as well, to make it slightly salty and it can lift off and soften some paints. Or some orange juice/citric acid. Its a slow lengthy process and might not work with some heavier paints.

So those are the agents that I know people have used or have used my self.

So how do you use them..?? I hear the voices in the gallery cry.. well..

Oh OK, I suppose it would be mean to just leave it there..

With the oven cleaner and power spray, people tend to put the minis in a bag. Spray in the cleaner, close the bag and leave 24hrs. Then rinse under water and scrub with tooth brush etc. can take a couple of treatment's to get lots of layers of paint off, and out of the deeper recesses in the mini.

With the likes of detal, simple green etc, just place figures into an air tight container with lid, cover with the liquid and soak for 24hrs. Remove, scrub and rinse. You may only have to do this the once. But sometimes a second soaking will work. Bits of paint will come off as they soak and so each batch or jar full will usually do about 10 to 20 minis before it becomes horrid and grim and needs disposing.

Break fluid - Well you are nuts if you use it. So don't!

Tools

Time - Yes time.. leave the figures to soak. Don't rush. The longer the better. I see on forums people saying a few hours of soaking is enough, then they comment that it takes ages scrubbing the paint. If you use Dettol like I do, I leave for at least 24grs and most paint will come off, inc glossy oils. I tend however to leave models soaking for weeks.. I have one resin bridge currently in a bath of dettol now 12 months. Why.. errr because I forgot about it.. lol. The paint has all bubbled up nicely and it just need a scrub.

That is one things to note. None of the above will work without some mechanical work. They will soften the paint and break the adhesion to the figure, but not the dissolve it completely.
Toothbrush - No not the one you use to actually brush your teeth, but a cheap new one (old ones tend to have worn out bristles at funny angles). Best tool in the box. Work the brush in straight strokes and then in circles. Circular motions help get the bristles into the deeper details and nooks.

Toothpicks - Wooden tooth picks are great for those hard to reach stubbon spotts of paint. Some people use metal tools, but on plastic figure you can easily scratch them and leave visible marks for when you come to repaint.

Ultrasonic Cleaners - These machine generate sound waves that create bubbles of air that vibrate off dirt. And can work on loose paint. The problem is, they tend not to work and a sole solution. You still need to soak your minis in something first to loosen the paint and then you still need to scrub them up afterword. Though apparently the scrubbing takes a lot less time. But unless you are doing a lot of stripping and I mean a lot, and invest in a high quality one (probably over £100 worth with heating ability/timer/variable settings) you won't see any real benefit.


Notes

Note there will be fumes with dettol. Nothing too bad, but enough for some people to find horrid and so opening a window helps.

Watch out for small parts. It is easy to miss small parts in the bottom of your solution, and tip them away only to discover it later. So don't work with running water over a sink with the plug out. Run the water in a bowl and periodically tip it out.

Gloves & Glasses.. - I would say wear gloves always. The sticky soft paint residue is horrid and never mind the effects of long term exposure to the chemicals. Just wear gloves. Good old marigolds work a treat. And a set of safety specs or goggles is a good idea too. Dettol or cleaner flicks when using a tooth brush. Don't get it in your eyes. Its not nice.

Kitchen town is always handy. And newspaper. I tend to have a bowl with an old sieve in it, that I put the scrubbed models into and then soak in water to remove the detol residue. A couple of rinses in clean water and then dried, and you are ready to paint.

Then I can examine them and either give them a second soaking or return them to mount galena to await their time on the hallow table of artistry.!


So.. there you go.. bet you are glad you read all the way to the bottom..


(See Part 2 for more!)